Litter Box Etiquette

February 26th, 2009 by PetSage

Litter Box Etiquette

By Andrea Tasi,VMD

A cat’s use of the litterbox is an ancestral instinct, yet the #1 behavioral reason cats are surrendered to shelters is housesoiling. Three major causes for cats eliminating outside their box are: 1) Medical conditions, 2) Litterbox aversions or preferences, and 3) Anxiety, stress and/or territorial issues. First, have your cat seen by your veterinarian for a complete health evaluation. Once the cat has been cleared of medical causes, our job is to learn what our cats like and dislike about litterboxes and provide the most attractive environment for elimination.

Not very appetizing eating next to the outhouse . . .

Litterbox preferences:

  • Bigger boxes are better. Most commercial litterboxes are too small for the average or larger cat. Under-the-bed storage containers or deeper storage containers with an entrance cut out make great alternatives.
  • Uncovered boxes are almost universally preferred. Covers concentrate odors and camouflage the need to scoop the box. (Imagine portable sanitation toilets and you might get the picture.) Plus, in multiple cat households covered boxes are prime territory for stalking others.
  • Clean boxes are respectful and essential. Clean with hot, soapy (dish soap) water, rinsed and dried regularly. If it smells bad after cleaning or is old and scratched, replace it.
  • Unscented litter is mandatory-a cat’s nose is 1000 times more sensitive than a humans. Not only is a fragrant scent offensive, it will never cover a dirty box. Clumping litter is not immortal and should be replaced regularly. Soft textured litter is preferred. New crystal and pellet litters may be uncomfortable.
  • Boxes should be scooped at least once, preferably twice daily. Make it easy: keep scoop and bags/closed container next to the box! If you won’t walk in the box in your bare feet, why expect it of your cat?
  • Placement is crucial with easy access to a clean, quiet and adequately lit area. Not, in a laundry room or next to appliances such as a furnace that can suddenly make loud noises.
  • Multiple cat households equals multiple locations, with as many boxes as there are cats, plus one. For senior/arthritic cats, a box on every level is mandatory. Food and water bowls should never be near the box-would you want to eat where you eliminate? And, if a cat repetitively soils an area PUT A BOX THERE!
  • Stress and anxiety may be helped with natural medicines such as flower essences or herbal therapies. Talk with your holistic veterinarian or animal care practitioner to select an appropriate remedy.

Keep in mind, we as cat caregivers provoke housesoiling by presuming that what we prefer is what our cats prefer. Respect you cat’s ancestral instinct and preferences for urination and defecation. If a cat is housesoiling make sure there are litterbox choices so your cats can show you their likes and dislikes. If caught in the act you can interrupt behavior and then take them to (but not put them in) the box. No punishment, no hollering, no after-the-fact nastiness. There is no moral value of urine or feces in the cat world!!

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En-joying Pawprints on Our Hearts

December 13th, 2008 by PetSage

© Terri Symonds Grow

How often do you speak of the joy your companion animal has given you? Or boast of their commitment to you during tough times? In Traditional Chinese Medicine, joy is the emotion of the heart. For those of us with pets we understand that connection. We understand that once these companions enter our lives our hearts are imprinted with their pawprints. We recognize the joy they bring into our lives and the gifts they give us - laughter that is induced from a puppy antic or the wise purr of a senior feline. But with the stress in our daily lives and the demands we often place on these nurturers, do we consider the emotional weight of our actions. Have we considered the implications on their health and behavior?

TCM wisdom teaches us that our compassion to identify with nature and humanity emanates from the heart and allows us to express our inner strength. But for the heart to respond compassionately when called upon it must be peaceful and protected from agitation and unrest. With stress, emotional trauma or overwhelming healing work the heart can become fatigued, kindling a deficiency. In humans this deficiency can be seen as forgetfulness, irritation and restlessness. Think about your ability to be compassionate when everything adds to more tension. You’re tired, you’re overwhelmed - there is an overdraft of your emotional bank, a deficiency impeding the heart bank from responding to joy, peace, and compassion. Not until you can rest and replenish, can your “bank” respond appropriately.

While we may not know whether animals experience forgetfulness, we do see them experience agitation and restlessness. Stress or depression in the household and chronic illness are major conditions that draw on our pet’s heart bank with them constantly trying to respond to our emotional needs. Unfortunately we may not recognize the need or are too sporadic with credits to our pets’ heart banks and over time a lack of joy or deficiency is created. Traditional Chinese Medicine explains that if left untreated this deficiency can evolve into an excess making the heart “overheated” and leaving the bank balance in the red. In humans, an overheated or overactive heart manifests into excessive talking, aberrant behavior, disjointed thinking, to more serious illnesses such as epilepsy. In animals we may see excessive barking, fear, aggression, anxiety, behavioral disturbances, as well as epilepsy.

Treatments for these deficiencies and excesses are based on the severity and complexity of the disturbances. If recognized early, diet changes, playtime and exercise can gently nourish the heart and remedy the imbalance. More serious imbalances can benefit from the many holistic therapies available such as herbal therapies, acupuncture, homeopathy and supplements. Even when these disturbances have progressed to life-threatening illnesses, holistic therapies can complement conventional medical care to support and restore.

So the next time you find yourself expressing the joy your pet has brought to your life, grasp the opportunity to give in return. Share your time and yourself and you just might receive a bonus with the replenishment of your own heart bank. Follow your dog’s lead on your next walk. Stretch out with your cats during their afternoon nap. Try agility so you and your dog can enjoy competition camaraderie. Or discover the contentment of making a homemade diet for your cat. In these moments you will find en-joyment and just possibly the good fortune to prevent the heart from over-ruling by inviting and spreading joy with peace and compassion.

Posted in Holistic Therapies | No Comments »

Recommended Books

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

DIET & NUTRITION

Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats: The Ultimate Diet
Our own doctors extol the virtues of eating fewer processed foods and adding more fresh foods to our diets — don’t our companion animals deserve the same consideration! Author Kymathy Schultze shows you a species appropriate diet of raw, natural foods in this common sense and proactical guide.

Home-Prepared Dog and Cat Diets: The Healthful Alternative
A first-of-its-kind nutrition and dietetics book, this resource offers owners and breeders a wholesome alternative to commercial pet food and provides veterinarians a unique reference for counciling clients. Over 200 computer-balanced recipes, nutrient content data, and special diets for gastrointestinal, renal failure, allergies, and more. Strombeck, 1998

HOLISTIC THERAPIES

All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets
An indispensable resource for pet owners. Beautifully photographed, this comprehensive guide offer pet owners andd veterinarians information on all aspects of medicinal uses of herbs. Mary Wulff-Tilford and Gregory L. Tilford, 2001

The Nature of Animal Healing
Renowned holistic veterinarian, Martin Goldstein, shares his philosophy of holistic veterinary care and how to enable our pets to regain and maintain health. 2001

Four Paws, Five Directions: A Guide to Traditional Chinese Medicine for Cats and Dogs
A practical guide that demonstrates the interconnection of nutrition, herbs, and other healing modalities. Cheryl Schwartz, DVM, 1996

Pet Allergies: Remedies for an Epidemic
Learn how diet and nutrition help heal and prevent illness. Plectner and Zucker, 1986

Natural Health Bible for Dogs & Cats
An indepth reference on supplements, herbs, diets and disease therapies. S. Messionnier, 2001

GERIATRIC

Your Aging Cat
Currently out of print, available for checkout through our Reading Room Reference Library.

Anti-Aging for Dogs: A Longevity
Program for Man’s Best Friend. Simple but effective changes in your dog’s
lifestyle, diet, exercise program, environment, and behavior can yield
astounding results. Respected veterinarian, Dr. John M. Simon, with Steve
Duno tell you how to put this powerful program into use. 1998

BEHAVIOR

Twisted Whiskers: Solving Your Cats Behavior Problems
Do you feel you’ll ever understand why you sweet kitten sometimes turns into the cat from hell? Twisted Whiskers helps owners understand the reason behind behavior and how to correct it permanently. Johnson, 1995

The Tao of Meow: Understanding & Training Your Cat the Taoist Way
The cat is the epitome of yin and yang, perfectly balanced between tame and wild, sociability and solitude, action and rest. Author and veteran trainer Deborah Wood introduces the kind, gentle priciples of Taoism to enrich your relationship, address litter box problems, aggression, clawing and spraying. 1998

The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training
Author Paul Oens links his spiritual approach with sound training principles and effective insights on a holistic approach with diet, training, exercise, and play time. 1999

The Tao of Bow Wow: Understanding & Training Your Dog the Taoist Way
Author Deborah Wood shows you how to use the gentle principles of Taoism to forge a relationaship with your dog. No force, no violence . . . just the effective way of the tao. 1998

SKIN CARE & ALLERGIES

Pet Allergies: Remedies for an Epidemic
Learn how diet and nutrition help heal and prevent illness. Plectner and Zucker, 1986

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Holiday Health & Safety

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

by Terri Symonds Grow

This holiday season take a few moments to check the safety of your home and to help keep your animal companions safe from potentially hazardous items and situations.

The Home Environment

Plants
Many plants can be poisonous including amaryllis, holly, azalea, philodendron, Easter Lily, and mistletoe. Even the decorative items florists add, such as ribbon and ornamentation, pose as threats to curious pets. Ingested ribbon or small items may cause intestinal blockage, while entangled ribbon or cording can choke playful companions.

Decorations
Scented candles, potpourri, adhesives and glues are often attractive to pets yet can be dangerous. Lit candles and decorative matches can cause burns or start fires if knocked over. The essential oils used in potpourri and candles are very concentrated, and can be toxic if ingested. Cats, especially, may be attracted to and susceptible to glues, adhesives, and small decorative items.

The Christmas Tree
Cats and dogs can be very attracted to the Christmas Tree, whether it is fresh or artificial. Dogs are known for pulling on the branches or trying to use the needles as scratching tools on those hard-to-reach itchy places, while cats may look upon the trunk and branches as climbing playgrounds. Take precautions to use a stable tree stand and make sure the tree is secure and balanced, and if necessary, a protective mesh layered on the inside lower branches to prevent trunk climbing. Sometimes scented repellents, such as citrus or pine, may be helpful. But remember to only use safely diluted products or in places unreachable by curious cats and dogs.

Lights
Use only quality decorative lights. If you have a young puppy or kitten or a pet that is intrigued by electrical cords, consider bitter, anti-chewing training repellents to spray exposed cords or just forgo lighting to protect your pet from electrical shock.

Ornaments
Hang small or fragile ornaments high – away from extended paws, and larger more durable ornaments near the bottom. Many pet owners find that leaving the lower third tree empty of ornaments, removes a great deal of the potential for problems. Yet, precaution still should be taken with fragile ornaments, small ornaments or those with small pieces. Icicles should never be used, due to the risk of ingestion and potential for intestinal blockages. Food decorations and tinsel are especially attractive to pets and just invitations to trouble.

A Fun Alternative
Give your cat or dog their own tree. Bargain for a smaller tree or use left over branches and bind together or weave into an upside down tomato cage – do not use the cage with chewing puppies or destructive dogs and be sure to cover any sharp points. Then hang treats, catnip toys, balls or any pet toy just for their enjoyment!

Foods & Treats

Rich and fatty foods, we often indulge in and are guilted into sharing, can lead to a range of problems from digestive distress to more serious pancreatitis. Alcohol and chocolate can be life threatening. Make sure candy and leftovers are kept out of paw reach. This goes for wrapped and boxed items, too! Remember to also keep your garbage in a sealed container to prevent access.

Commotion & Stress

Visiting can be a fun time for many pets, while others become too excited, fearful or frightened. If your pet is uncomfortable around guests, place him/her in a quiet area or separate room away from activity. If the animal is used to a crate, make sure this is available to offer security and comfort, along with fresh water, food, toys, and a litter box (if appropriate). Natural calming remedies may be beneficial with helping your pet through difficult times. Then, when guests have gone, spend some quality time with your pet and relax!

Identification

With the commotion of visitors, stressed pets have been known to slip out. Make sure your pet has current tags, is tattooed, and or microchiped to help expedite identification. If traveling with your pets, make sure to carry a recent photograph and any pertinent medical information.

Toys & Gifts

Remember to purchase items made especially for pets. Reputable pet product manufacturers have gone to great efforts to make pet toys more durable, free of hazardous pieces, and designed for different sizes and breeds.

First Aid & Emergencies

First aid may range from something as simple as comforting your pet to assessing a trauma situation. Be prepared to act knowing and effectively until veterinary can be reached. First aid guidebooks and kits are available for home care and when traveling. If you suspect poisoning, contact an emergency clinic, the nearest poison control center, or the National Animal Poison Control, 1-800-548-2423.

Copyright PetSage, Inc. 2004

Posted in Seasonal Stuff | No Comments »

Cold Weather Tips for Older Pets

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

by Terri Symonds Grow

While this winter has been mild comparatively, we still have a few months of cooler, damp days ahead of us. So precautions must still be heeded for older pets who have special needs.

  1. Provide a warm environment. Cold floors are particularly hard on the older pet with stiff and arthritic joints. Cold drafts may compromise the senior pet with the weaker immune system, making them more susceptible to illness. New specialized and heated beddng designed for pets provide cozy and comfortable retreats. Do NOT use electric blankets and heated pads made for humans.
  2. Exercise regularly. Changes in routine and lack of exercise interfere with mobility and regularity. In the younger pet this may not be a problem, but in the older one this may start a chain reaction of problems.
  3. Protective “clothing”. In inclement weather, consider protective gear to help make sure your pet stays dry and protected from dampness and chill. Don’t forget to protect or rinse paws after walks. Salt and chemicals used for clearing roads and walkways can be caustic and even toxic if ingested. New animal safe products are now available for sidewalks, such as SafePaws. Take note too of early lawn gardeners with fertilizers and chemicals.
  4. Enhance coat and skin care. Pet guardians may be surprised to learn that skin care may be even more important in the winter because of artificial heat and lower humidity. Use moisturizing shampoos and sprays, consider supplementing with essential fatty acids, and brush regularly to help stimulate healthy skin.
  5. Evaluate diet and nutritional supplements. Older pets may require higher fiber in their diets to help protect sensitive digestive systems and metabolisms. Review the ingredients in your pet’s food. Consider boosting with healthy, natural foods, fresh foods and supplements to help create a natural defense line - a healthy immune system.
  6. Fresh water and fresh air. Help your older pet’s sensitive system avoid the chemicals and sediment of tap water by offering filtered or distilled water. Don’t forget cleaning and humidifying your indoor air. Older pets are often more sensitive to air pollutants, which are now trapped indoors in the cooler months.
  7. Inspect for household hazards. Each year pet owners are warned of the danger of antifreeze, yet many pets die because of their affinity to this enticing liquid. Make sure your home and yard are free of this deadly chemical. Better yet, switch to an environmentally safer antifreeze. Other household hazards include: mothballs, toilet bowl cleaners, frayed electrical outlets, and carbon monoxide poisoning.
  8. Massage, a bonus for you and your pet. Massage increases blood circulation, helps aches and pains, reduces blood pressure, soothes away fears, and encourages relaxation. What better way to relax, increase the bond between you and your pet, and melt away the stresses of your day?

Copyright PetSage, Inc. 2004

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A Holistic View of Pet Allergies

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

by Terri Symonds Grow

Does your pet chew or lick incessantly? Scratch until there are oozing sores? Have chronic ear infections, diarrhea, or vomiting? If only you could find relief for your pet and, let’s face it, for your guilt and frustration. Too often these illnesses aren’t the problem—they are symptoms indicating that your pet has become hypersensitive or allergic to something in its environment.

Allergies are the body’s immune system or natural defense mechanism working overtime against usually harmless substances. These substances, or allergens, can be natural or artificial, organic or inorganic. They occur in food, in the home, and in the environment. They can be ingested, inhaled, transmitted by contact, or absorbed. Allergic reactions manifest in many different forms—as itchy skin and eruptions, often near the base of the tail; excessive licking or chewing of the paws; runny eyes and nose or sinusitis; inflamed or infected ears; behavioral changes; hyperactivity; and digestive upsets such as vomiting, gas, or diarrhea. More life-threatening reactions include urinary tract inflammations, kidney and liver disease, and cancer. And, yet the symptoms are often treated as the cause, and the allergy often goes undetected.

In her book The Natural Dog, veterinarian Mary L. Brennan acknowledges that “Allergies have become more common in the recent years and are one of the most challenging aspects of veterinary medicine.” Although allergies cannot be cured, there are ways to control them. Conventional veterinary treatments include a hypoallergenic diet, fatty acid supplements, hypoallergenic shampoos, antihistamines, steroids, and immunotherapy (allergy shots). Holistic veterinary care focuses on increasing the health of your pet so fewer conventional drugs, if any, may be needed.

Diet
If you suspect your pet’s food may be contributing to allergic sensitivity, gradually switch to a quality natural diet. Has your pet been on the same food for years? Animals often become sensitive to the foods they most often eat. Ask your veterinarian about a homemade recipe or a hypoallergenic commercial diet, such as lamb and rice—without chemical preservatives. Try to keep the diet as high quality as possible to avoid stress on organs and to help support the immune system. Remember this includes doggie biscuits and kitty treats.

In addition to a premium diet, nutritional supplements may prove helpful in building a healthier system. A full spectrum vitamin-mineral supplement is a must. Make sure it includes zinc, silica, and sulfur—three minerals found to help skin problems. Fatty acid supplements rich in Omega 3s and 6s are necessary for healthy coat and skin, and can be found in evening primrose, sunflower, safflower, flax, and borage oils, as well as fish oil. Vitamin C helps provide immunity to disease and in high doses may have an antihistamine effect. Antioxidants vitamin A, B, E, and selenium can also be helpful. Supplementing needed digestive enzymes may help improve allergies by replacing naturally occurring enzymes that are destroyed in cooking. Other supplements may include alfalfa for its enzymes and vitamin content, seaweed for its trace minerals, and Co-Q 10 for allergy relief at the cellular level.

Immune System Deficiencies
Genetics play an ever-increasing role in pet allergies. Overbreeding is creating animals that are prone to immune system deficiencies, from auto-immune disease, where the body attacks itself, to hypersensitivity.

Shar Peis, Golden and Labrador Retrievers, terriers, Scotties, and Akitas are some of the breeds that suffer from immune deficiencies, which manifest themselves as skin problems. When tested, these breeds show hypothyroidism (low thyroid). Often, though, these dogs do not respond to thyroid therapy because their low thyroid is often a symptom of poor adrenal gland function. Conventional veterinary care often turns to cortisone, an anti-inflammatory agent and synthetic version of the corticosteroids naturally released by adrenal glands, to suppress autoimmune functions and manage reactions to allergens.

Holistic veterinarians may consider the herb, licorice, as an alternative to cortisone. Licorice contains glycyrrhizin, a compound similar to these corticosteroids. Glycyrrhizin effectively stimulates the adrenal glands and introduces its own anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, immune-supporting corticosteroid-like actions on the body. As a result, licorice offers relief from the itching and inflammation without completely bypassing the body’s own anti-inflammatory functions and without seriously compromising the autoimmune system.

Over-vaccination
Recent controversies about vaccines and over-vaccination also bring to light immune system complications. In trying to protect our pets from deadly diseases, vaccines also have the potential to induce chronic to life-threatening health problems. Veterinarian Dee Blanco, a holistic practitioner in Santa Fe, New Mexico, describes it as an indirect link by which weakened, compromised systems—overloaded by multiple vaccines—give way and become symptomatic. In the preliminary results of a recent Canine Health Census survey of Dog World magazine readers and CHC members, 55 percent of the respondents said their pets showed signs of illness within three months after receiving vaccines.

In no way should you construe that vaccines should be forsaken. Some vaccines are required by law and others are appropriate to given geographical regions. However, you should be an informed pet owner. Read up on the subject, know the laws, discuss the issues with your veterinarian—even talk with other veterinarians. Remember to discuss your pet’s individual health and needs.

Environmental stresses
Grasses, mold, dust, and pollens are well-known allergens. But what about the wool or synthetic carpet your pet lies on every day; water impurities they drink or are bathed in; lawn fertilizers and pesticides they walk through and then ingest through licking; detergents you use on their bedding; or the flea repellents, from the cedar chips in bedding to the chemical shampoos you use to free them of these parasites?

Elimination usually is the best tool in managing allergies. Air filters help remove inhalant allergens, such as pollen or dust. Removal of carpeting or its regular cleaning (be aware of what the cleaning agents are) helps eliminate or minimize bacteria and mold, as will the use of hypoallergenic bedding. Rinsing your pet’s paws or wiping him down after walks reduces exposure to pesticides. And natural herbal repellents offer alternatives to toxic chemicals.

Conventional veterinary specialists often prescribe antihistamines to control the effects of the allergens and immunotherapy, or allergy shots, to desensitize the pet to the allergen. Holistic practitioners may turn to homeopathy and nosodes, herbal treatments, or several other available options. Homeopathy is used to treat the underlying tendency to have allergies, while nosodes, readily available or specially developed for your pet’s allergens, desensitize the body’s immune system. Herbal therapies—Western, such as dandelion and milk thistle, and Chinese—help to cleanse, nurture, and strengthen the system. Select topical herbal treatments, such as calendula, also may be helpful to relieve skin eruptions. Other methods may include acupuncture to boost the adrenal glands and help restore the body’s energy flow and glandular therapy to help strengthen the affected organ.

Prevention
Allergic reactions are often the result of a build up of years of insults triggered by an isolated incident. Managing allergies takes more than curing the symptom of itching skin. It requires your observation, diligence, and communication with your veterinarian to help prevent your pet’s discomfort. You must recognize the warning signs, such as paw licking or ear rubbing, that if heeded may help prevent more serious problems.

Remember, health care is an ongoing process and a healthy body is the best guard against environmental stresses. Work with your veterinarian to develop a preventive protocol with the appropriate dosages and therapies. Keep in mind that alternative therapies can often complement traditional veterinary care and may eliminate or allow you to use fewer conventional drugs.

Used with permission from PetView Magazine, Summer 1997 Issue

Common Allergens

Foods
Beef and beef by-products
Milk
Yeast and yeast products
Pork
Turkey
Tuna (cats)
Corn and wheat
Preservatives

Environmental
Molds
Dust
Plant and tree pollen
Grasses
Water contaminants
Lawn and insect pesticides
Flea and insect bites
Pressure-treated wood

Chemical
Detergents and fabric softeners
Flea repellent shampoos and dips
Medications, including vaccines
Carpet cleaners

Elusive allergens
Bedding fillers: cedar, feathers
Plastic or improperly fired ceramic dishes
Fluorescent lighting
Perfumes
Household deodorizers

Posted in Skin Care & Allergies | No Comments »

Cats at Home

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

A conversation on new ideas for helping prevent boredom, lethargy and obesity.

They’re not little people in furry suits. Nor are they a version of small dogs. Today’s cats, felis sylvestris lybica, are descendants of African wildcats with behaviors and needs we are uncovering with new perspectives. In an interview with Dr. Andréa Tasi of Kingstowne Cat Clinic, we were given new insights into ideas and strategies to enrich the home environment of our felines.

PetSage: After years of campaigns citing safety and health issues, many caregivers today choose to keep their cats indoors. In our efforts to protect them against harm, you now express concerns that we are forsaking their ancestral needs and may be opening the door for behavioral and unforeseen health issues.

Dr. Tasi: The belief is that the cat is domesticated. However, in studying feral cats in the wild and our companion animals at play, their hunter, predatory instincts are still very much intact. Yet, the time budgets - how cats spend their time - between these two groups shows behavioral contrasts. In the wild, cats spend 60% of their time sleeping and resting, 15% grooming, 15% hunting and less than 10% eating and “frittering” about. With indoor cats, the sleep and rest time shifts to 80%, leading to neurochemistry changes in the brain and the potential for compulsive behaviors.

PetSage: How does this translate into the care of our cats?

Dr. Tasi: We need to acknowledge that a cat’s whole being is attuned to hunt. With a sense of smell that is 1000% greater than ours, eyesight that can target small prey on the move, and hearing that can triangulate on demand, we need to engage and encourage the predator within. This requires us to enrich the home environment, to develop emotionally and physically challenging games that will help prevent boredom, lethargy and obesity.

PetSage: But many of us already offer a wide selection of toys for their amusement. What’s the difference with the playtime you’re describing?

Dr. Tasi: The single most important concept in enriching our cats’ lives is the concept of frustration. We need to create games that allow them to be predators and “complete” the sequence of the hunt, simulating the process of hunting for food: see-stalk-chase-pounce-bite. Trail a fishing rod style toy with feathers or roll balls of paper past your feline and you will see what they are born to do! A key here is the length of playtime. In the wild, it’s estimated that cats stalk prey 30 times a day. It’s also important to recognize that some cats will like one type of toy, while another may find it imposing. Various types of toys need to be offered to encourage even the meekest feline.

PetSage: Looking at playtime as part of an outdoor adventure makes me curious of other ways you can expand the indoor cat’s environment. What are some of the ideas you find you’re recommending and do you find they are adaptable in multiple cat households?

Dr. Tasi: I suppose I’m encouraging cat parents to bring the outside world in, to create a changing environment that will require inspection and the use of senses. The empty grocery bag becomes a new hiding place; rocks, flowers and leaves offer information on the changing seasons; or stacked boxes or strategically arranged furniture offer new perspectives. Not only are these ideas adaptable in multiple cat households, they are indispensable and need to be expanded upon because social and territorial anxieties can develop. An environment of plenty needs to be established. What I mean by this is that there needs to be variety of feeding stations and waterbowls, litter boxes, and hiding places. Vertical spaces are particularly important in multiple cat households, because a cat’s instinct for security is a high perching place - where they are not vulnerable to attack.

PetSage: Let’s back up a minute. Most of us understand territorial anxieties, what do you mean by social anxieties?

Dr. Tasi: Socialization is very important to our cats: social contact between you and your cat and between your cat and other cats in the house. Let me stop here and say, that while I’ve come across cats in practice that prefer to live alone, I’ve come to feel strongly that indoor cats shouldn’t live alone. We find that if a cat is raised alone, he or she never acquire feline social skills. But in pairs or multiple households, they interact by practicing their hunting behaviors in play and learn the affection of one another.

PetSage: The concepts you describe seem easy to implement with great benefits for meeting a cat’s social, hunting, and exploration needs. Any closing thoughts?

Dr. Tasi: Make your cat work for its dinner. I don’t mean doing tricks, I mean make feeding more difficult. If you feed dry food, create ways to mimic the natural foraging cats go through hunting for food. This can be as simple as dividing a daily serving into portions and hiding throughout the house. Or using foraging toys, where the cat needs to manipulate for the food to fall out. Two hints though: hide only dry food and remember where you’ve hidden it!

Andrea Tasi graduated from the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine in 1988, and has been in feline exclusive practice since 1991. She lives with her husband and 4 cats in Fairfax Station, VA. A member of the American Association of Feline Practitioners, she credits their excellent continuing education conferences for many of the ideas she expresses in this interview.

Posted in Behavior | 1 Comment »

Is My Pet Having An Emergency? An Owner’s Guide to At-Home Assessment

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

By Christy L Shoup, DVM

Before an emergency, learn “ER speak” so you can describe your pet’s condition efficiently. But first you’ll need to learn the basics of assessing an emergency situation. The guidelines included here are intended to help you to provide detailed, specific information to your veterinarian or the emergency veterinarian. They in no way should replace veterinary care, but may prove useful in determining whether or not your pet needs to be seen on an emergency basis. When in doubt, have your pet seen by a veterinarian immediately. You are encouraged to assess your pet frequently when he or she is healthy to allow you to determine what “normal” is for your pet and discuss these findings with your veterinarian on your pet’s next appointment.

Learn Your Pet’s:

  1. Heart Rate
  2. Heart Rhythm
  3. Respiratory Rate
  4. Respiratory Effort
  5. Mucous Membrane Color
  6. Capillary Refill Time (CRT)
  7. Rectal Temperature
  8. Hydration

To determine your pet’s:

Heart rate:
Listen to the heart with a stethescope, best heard on the left side of the body. When the left front leg is flexed close to the body and back slightly, the point of the elbow should lay against the chest and fall approximately over heart. In very large dogs with a deep chest, it may be difficult to hear the heart. To prevent panting in dogs, it may be necessary to close the mouth gently. Do this only if the dog is breathing comfortably.

Take the pulse:
1. Inside the hind leg, close to the body wall.
2. Front paw, between 3rd and 4th bones on top side of “hand”

Normal heart rates
Dogs: 70-120. Larger dogs have slower heart rates than smaller dogs.
Cats: 140-180. Stressed cats at a veterinary clinic often have a heart rate of ~ 200.

Heart rhythm:
In both cats and dogs, the sounds heard should be “lub-dub, lub-dub, lub-dub”. A whoosh sound indicates a cardiac murmur, and may significant. “Extra” heart sounds or an irregular rhythm not associated with breathing (dogs only) should be noted. Normal, healthy dogs may have what is called a “respiratory sinus arrhythmia” - this means that the heart rate increases when the dogs inhales, and slows when the dog exhales. This does not signify a problem.

Respiratory Rate:
In both cats and dogs, a resting respiratory rate should be between 16-40 breaths per minute. Obviously, dogs sometimes pant. Cats, however, should never breathe with an open mouth.

Respiratory Effort:
A normal breath should be very smooth, and your pet’s chest can be observed to gently rise and fall. Note if your pet is having difficulty inhaling, inhales in a “jerky” manner with several quick inhalations per each exhalation, or has notable abdominal movement associated with breathing.

Mucous Membrane Color:
Mucous membranes include the gums (most commonly used), the tissue of the inside of the eyelids, and the insides of the prepuce or vulva. Normal coloration is a healthy pink. Some dogs have naturally pigmented oral mucous membranes, and must be examined in one of the latter locations. Cats normally have paler membranes than dogs, so be sure to examine your cat when healthy to obtain a normal baseline.

  • Blue/purple membranes indicate a lack of oxygen being delivered to the tissues and constitute an emergency.
  • Brick red membranes may indicate shock.
  • Pale pink or white mucous membranes indicate severe anemia or sudden blood loss.

Capillary Refill Time (CRT):
When pressure is applied to a mucous membrane to blanche the color from it, the time it takes for the color to return should be 2 seconds or less. A longer CRT indicates that the heart is not able to return blood to those tissues appropriately.

Rectal Temperature:

  • Normal temperature for both dog and cats: 100°-102.5° F.
  • Digital thermometers work well, but discuss with your veterinarian insertion recommendations.
  • A dog that has just returned from a walk on a hot day will have a higher temperature, up to 103.
  • A temperature lower than 98° F in a cat often proceeds multiple organ failure and death.

Hydration:

  • Feel your pets’ gums. If the gums feel tacky and dry rather than moist, dehydration is estimated at 3-5% minimum.
  • A less sensitive way of determining the hydration status of your pet is the skin tenting test. When the skin is pulled up into a “tent” it should return quickly into place.
  • One additional method of assessing hydration is more subjective, and involves observing the eyes for a dull or sunken appearance.

When speaking with an ER clinic:
Start by giving age, sex, (including spay/neuter), and breed of your pet. This is the name, rank, and serial number of veterinary medicine. Describe the signs your pet is exhibiting which are of immediate concern. Include:

  • Time of onset
  • Duration of problem
  • Frequency of problem
  • Disclose any current medical problems - diabetes, hyperthyroidism, heart disease, etc. and medications, including herbal therapies and supplements.

Dr. Shoup is in exclusive emergency practice in the Washington, D.C. area.

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Litter Box Blues

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

by Terri Symonds Grow with Annie Bruce

Cats don’t normally urinate outside the litter box unless something is wrong. If your cat is crying or straining while urinating, squatting repeatedly as if he can sit still, has blood in his urine, making frequent trips to the litter box, repeatedly cleaning himself as if he is uncomfortable, take your cat to your veterinarian immediately. Do not assume it is behavioral. While the cause may be, trying to figure it out during a health crisis is not the appropriate time. Life threatening medical factors must be ruled out first. Urinating outside the litter box can be a sign of illnesses such as feline urologic syndrome, bladder inflammation, bowel disorders, kidney stones, epilepsy, and more.

However, once any medical disorder has been ruled out or an acute problem is under control, it’s time to assess your cat’s total health care from a holistic perspective. Cat consultant Annie Bruce figures more than half the calls she receives are about cat urination problems. She contributes stress as the leading cause of litter box problems, which can be brought on by emotional, environmental, as well as physical problems.

  • Poor diet and lack of exercise. A dry-food-only, unbalanced or unvaried diet can contribute to kidney, liver, or bladder problems. Allergic reactions to certain foods may also prompt problems.
  • Change. Disruption in daily routine and their environment-moving, new family additions, vacations, can be very stressful to some cats.
  • Declawing. Declawing makes it difficult for a cat to cover its waste, often causing greater litter box problems.
  • Poor environment. Violence, overcrowding, loneliness, boredom, sharp smells, loud noises or humans arguing extensively make a cat’s life stressful.
  • Litter box. A dirty litter box, one in a poor location, or even an electronic cleaning one may repulse, frighten, or intimidate a cat into refusing the litter box.
  • Territorial challenges. Seeing or smelling a strange cat around their home can send a cat right into litter box retaliation. Overcrowding can also result in territorial pressures.
  • Bad chemistry. Not every cat fits into every home and may not adjust to the new environment of other people, cats, dogs or other pets.

Preventing Indiscriminate Elimination Problems

Make sure your cat is eating a quality diet with vitamins and supplements and a wide variety of foods, plus spending daily time with you that includes playtime and your undivided attention. If your veterinarian is concerned that your cat is at risk for FUS, discuss preventative natural remedies that address urinary tract crystals, infection and irritation.

Improve the litter box experience by offering enough litter boxes: one box per cat, plus one, and cleaning at least once a day. Don’t forget to make sure the area around the litter box is clear for easy access. Try different litters and box sizes, and allow your cat to choose his preference. Remember cats may not find scented litter as appealing as you do, and that east-to-use scoopable litters have been associated with health problems. And, if your cat is older or arthritic, make sure the sides of the box aren’t too high.

If your cat is urinating in potted plants or on personal items, take precautions. Cover the dirt with pinecones or decorative rocks and don’t leave dirty clothes or bad-smelling articles out. Some cats will urinate on items they find offensive. Neutralize offending urine odor so as not to attract a cat to urinate there again.

Recognize that if your cat has had a bout of FUS, he may view the litter box as the cause of the pain. You may need to change the box, litter or location before he’s “comfortable” again.

If your cat is spraying:

  • If you haven’t done so, spay or neuter your cat.
  • Reduce overcrowded situations and use play therapy to reduce tensions between cats. Consider calming herbal formulas, flower essences, or homeopathy to help reduce accompanying anxiety and to help address behavior and territorial issues.
  • Keep a scratching post near a window or door to help relieve frustration or anger. Consider a low, horizontal scratching board, scratching horizontally is another way a cat will mark territory. Or keep a bed by the window so that your cat can watch and protect the house, he may feel less threatened if he can see outside.

These are just a few of the issues and solutions to the difficult problem of indiscriminate urination and spraying. Fortunately we are learning more and have access to many new therapies. If you have an offending cat, contact an animal behaviorist with experience in cat behavior problems; take advantage of the many new books on cat behavior; and make sure you discuss alternative therapies, such as acupuncture, chiropractic, Tellington Touch, flower essences, homeopathy, and herbal remedies with a holistic veterinarian.

From Cats Be Good, A Common Sense Approach to Training Your Cat Copyright © 2000 Annie Bruce, with references from Inappropriate Elimination by Yody Blass of Companion Animal Behavior and Twisted Whiskers © Pam Johnson Bennett.

© PetSage 2000

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Excerpted from The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training

November 23rd, 2008 by PetSage

By Paul Owens with Norma Eckroate

From a dog’s perspective, there is no such thing as a problem behavior. He’s doing what he’s doing for his own dog reason. And to look at from another perspective, a behavior you don’t consider a problem might be one to other people. You might like your dog jumping up on you when you get home but others don’t. If your dog’s behavior is harmful to, the environment, other people, other animals, or you, it deserves immediate attention.

In most cases problem behaviors are caused by an imbalance of nine ingredients. Exceptions are those cases where your dog’s behavior is influenced by a physical or mental health problem. Therefore, before implementing any behavioral modification program, ask your veterinarian to do a thorough exam.

Nine Ingredients for Optimum Health

High quality diet: Is your dog chewing things or misbehaving because of hunger? Or is his diet low in essential nutrients? Sometimes a dog chews on objects because the body, in its wisdom, is seeking nutrients that are missing or underprovided in the diet. For instance, if your dog chews on grass (a little bit can be okay), eats feces, or eats from a cat’s litter box, his body may be looking for nutrients. Is your dog “hyper” because of all the sugar he’s being fed due to low quality pet food? Is he having problems “holding” while in the house? Maybe he’s been drinking more water than usual because of too much salt in the food, rawhide bones, and other chewies.

Play, Exercise, and Socialization: Many dogs are simply bored and frustrated because they’re not getting enough physical, emotional, and mental stimulation. They don’t get enough exercise. They don’t get to socialize with their dog pals and other human beings. They may be bored because they haven’t been presented with anything new or exciting lately.

Employment: Does your dog have a “job” to do? If you don’t provide an environment for him to express himself, he’ll chew, or bark, or jump just to keep himself employed. Jobs include retrieving toys, doing tricks, and playing games. Then institute canine currency, pay your dog for appropriate behavior, which is looked at as his work or job.

Rest: Is your dog getting enough rest? Many problem behaviors, including snapping or growling, can manifest because your dog is exhausted and beyond his stress management threshold.

Training: Some people think their dogs are stubborn or dumb. In reality, many dogs are simply confused because they don’t know what to do. This is because a behavior hasn’t been positively reinforced enough times and in enough different situations to make it stick.

Quiet Time: Does your dog have a place to get away from it all” for quality time out? Maybe him jumping and chewing are simply stress relievers.

Health Care: Does your dog have a physical problem that may be contributing to the chewing problems?

Unintentional Training

As well intentioned and diligent as you may be during your dog’s training, you may be responsible for eliciting the opposite of the behavior you intended.

When Fourth of July fireworks start or a summer thunderstorm rumble, your nervous dog starts to shake and pace, and you reach to soothe him and murmur: It’s okay, Benjie. Everything’s fine. Gooood dog.” You may have inadvertently practiced unintentional training because your dog views the praise as a reward. You have actually reinforced behavior you’re trying to discourage.

Or let’s say you’re talking on the phone and your dog starts barking for attention. A normal response is to interrupt the call and yell at the dog, “Be quiet!” Once again, you may be reinforcing the undesirable behavior. In this case, you are giving your dog what he wants-your attention.

When considering what to do with your dog’s problem behavior, try to look at the situation from your dog’s point of view. Take a mental snapshot of the environment at the time of the problem behavior. Become aware of what your dog is actually learning from the people and events around him. Ask yourself what you want your dog to do rather than what you want you dog to stop doing.

Remember-your dog’s behavior can be increased or decreased by your response. The trick is to stop reacting and remember to respond instead. Pause before you act. Reacting denotes an emotionally based knee-jerk behavior to a particular situation. On the other hand, a response means we bring all our wisdom, creativity, intuition, and emotion to the situation. When you stop to consider what you are about to do with your dog, you are able to focus on how to deal with the problem rather than the symptom.

Signs of Separation Anxiety

Whining, whimpering, and barking. Urinating and defecating, runny nose, panting, and sweaty paws. Pacing, shivering, jumping, clawing, digging, and crashing through windows. Chewing the furniture or other objects, ripping up the linoleum, or chewing himself.

If your dog exhibits signs of separation anxiety, contact a professional trainer for assistance. It’s important to create a safe environment. Make sure there is nothing your dog can chew or destroy. If necessary, segregate him in a kennel or pen on in the kitchen, using baby gates as doorway barriers. If a kennel or pen is used, exercise caution as it can make the problem worse if introduced incorrectly. It’s also extremely helpful for someone to take a week off from his job to work with the dog.

Separation anxiety is directly and powerfully affected by the Nine Ingredients for Optimum Health and Growth (see above). Review, integrate and balance these ingredients with the following tips.

· Lower your energy level when you depart and arrive. In essence, you are telling your dog that being separated is no big deal.
· Set a schedule. Dogs thrive on a routine and are able to relax more because they are able to predict the future.
· Give a special toy or treats just before you leave. Give a special toy such as a treat-filled Kong only when you leave, so that eventually your dog will look forward to you going out.
· Turn on a radio or television. Choose a channel you normally listen to. Soothing classical or New Age is best. Turn it on as soon as you awaken and leave it on when you leave.
· Implement depart and return sessions. Beginning by saying “see ya,” opening the door, closing it and rewarding with a treat. As your dog progresses, add time then distance.
· Natural alternatives, such as herbs, flower essences, aromatherapy, and homeopathic remedies, help with separation anxiety and other emotionally based issues. To learn more, consult a holistic veterinarian or holistic care books.
· Medication. Contact a veterinary behaviorist who uses nonviolent methodology if you want to look into pharmaceutical drugs in conjunction with a behavior modification program.
· Confidence building. Building a dog’s confidence builds a sense of security. Socializing your dog is key. You can do this through such tools as giving him smart toys, which provide opportunities for him to figure things out on his own, participating in training classes, and giving him a job to do. Step-by-step, your dog’s perception of life changes and he learns the world is not such a bad place to be.
· Exercise your dog before you leave. If you get your dog a little tired, he’ll have less energy to burn off while you’re gone. (Plus it’s good for you too!)

Copyright 1999 Paul Owens and Norma Eckroate. The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training is published by Adams Media Corporation.

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